50 Miles or Bust! (a long read, and an even longer walk, but worth it)

The 50 mile hike this year was just about the hardest hike I've ever done. If I'd had more time to prepare for it (like scouting out the route) I would have have done a couple of things differently. Most of this particular route was one I scoped out on maps 12-15 years ago, but never had the chance to hike. It basically makes a loop around six lakes and a couple of significant peaks - starting and ending at Chub Lake (Marin Sierra Scout Camp) at the joining of Hwy 20 and I-80.

The lakes we visited were Byers, Meadow, Bowman, Penner, Island and Milk. The peaks along the route are Old Man Mt. and Grouse Ridge. We started at 5200' and spent most of our time at 6800' - 7800'. Most of us overcame the change in altitude from sea level by the end of the second day.

My big mistake, and the one which cost us most in time and effort, was in assuming that trails were the same as 12 years ago and that maps were accurate. It also didn't help that we started late (due to some last minute priesthood responsibilities that arose) and that I was exhausted before we even left. On the other hand, I didn't fair any worse than the others - and they were no doubt grateful for my fatigue.

The first day is really what did us in. We ended up on roads and trails that didn't lead us where we wanted to go. I hiked 2-3 extra miles trying to find the best way to get where we needed to be. (In fact, most days I ended up hiking a couple miles extra in this effort) Ultimately we were on the right trail, but that meant a steep, steady uphill climb of 1600' over the roughest, granite rock trail I've ever been on. We even had to cross a river by taking off our boots and wading to the other side.

We eventually made it to Byers Lake by 7:30 that evening, with just enough time to fix a final meal and go to bed as it got dark.

The next morning looked brighter and we made our gradual ascent up and over the ridge toward the old mining site of Baltimore. Below is the view of our group form above Byers Lake.

Just as we crossed the ridge we came upon a snow bank and had some fun with that while we replenished water supplies. Snow was plentiful on the trip and we often consoled ourselves by consuming 2 or 3 slushies a day made with Crystal Lite and snow. I tried to convince the boys that there was no need to purify this snow melt - but they persisted anyway.

Later that day we had planned on getting to the top of Old Man Mountain, but being worn out by the first day's hike and with smoke from the hundreds of lightning strike fires burning in NorCal that week, we thougth it best not to push the boys too hard. For those who have been up Old Man, you will remember the tremndous view missing from the photo below.

It turned out well to give the boys a light day. We made it to Meadow Lake by 3:30 and everyone had a nice rest that evening. Meadow Lake is the former site of one of the largest cities of the Gold Rush era. Over 2000 people, 80 businesses, a stock exchange, and tour boats that would take people across the lake to dance halls at night. Mark Twain even visited there and wrote about it. The interesting thing about this town is that it grew from nothing in the course of two years - then after a harsh winter with 30' of snow fall (and of course, little gold being found) it disappeared in less than half that amount of time. You see the smoke settling in. This was common every night of the hike.

The next day was much easier, and pleasant for the boys. We stopped for lunch at Catfish Lake and one of the boys caught the first fish of the hike. That's rigth, a catfish.

We reached Bowman Lake by 1:30 that afetrnoon, another good thing for the morale of the group. That night we had dinner brought to us from camp. A couple of boys had made noises about leaving the hike and returning with the food vehicle, but we managed to bolster their spirits with the good meal and the promise of better days to come. The weather had been great and things looked good.

Our hike the next day took us up hill much of the way (from 5500' to 7500'), but we had soft trails and shady pathes. We hiked past beautiful lakes and expansive vistas.

David may remember swimming out to the island in the lake seen below (through the smoke).

Not long after noon we made the final steep ascent up to Grouse Ridge. Later in the afetrnoon we hiked up to the abandoned Forest Service fire lookout and had fun in the snow. Two views of the lookout give you a good idea of how cool it was to climb around it.

You see the snow, and the boys made the most of it.

This is my favorite shot from the peak. It's a view of the "facility" at the lookout. If it appears that the outhouse is suspended in mid air out over the edge of a cliff, well, that's pretty acurate.

And now, the photo you've all been waiting for. . . me in my "do-rag." I liked to get it wet in a stream and wrap it around my head, letting it hang down my neck. Very cool.

We picked the only level campsite at Grouse Ridge for our last night out. It also turned out to be the worst place for flying bugs. For the first time ever I broke out my mosquito net and used it to my great relief.

The next morning we rose early and left by 7:00 am. The 10 mile, mostly downhill, hike was done by noon and we were back in camp in plenty of time for lunch (which was a smorgesbord of leftovers from the rest of the week). It was a beautiful thing.

We hiked 13 of the toughest miles I've ever made the first day, 7 the second, and 10 or 11 every day thereafter. It was a great experience for the boys. At our Aaronic Priesthood Camps we have what amounts to a daily seminary class called Retun With Honor. On the hike we did that for the boys every evening before turning in. Nearly all of the young men commented on how moved they were by the testimonies shared.

In short, there are a lot of things I like about doing this kind of thing. The hiking, the solitude, the scenery, and the food. But the experience as a whole is what really makes it worthwhile.